Nonfiction by Roger Funston
Today I walk a sixteen kilometer transect over coastal dunes and along brackish lagoons. We are keeping a list of the migratory birds we see—Eastern Curlew and Bar-tailed Godwit, critically endangered; Red-necked Stilt, vulnerable. These birds fly 8,000 miles from China and Siberia to winter in Coorong National Park. It is April 1985, autumn in Australia. Soon these birds will make their way back to Northern Hemisphere summer.
Coorong National Park is located on the southern coast of Australia on the South Sea, where the South Pacific and Indian Oceans meet. Mixing of the Southern Sea and the Murray River create estuaries of fresh and saline waters, world class wetlands that are endangered because of reduced freshwater flows and drought. Vulnerable Southern Belle frogs and Heath Goanna live in freshwater. Water birds nest on the saline lagoons and mudflats. The Cooring has one of the largest pelican rookeries in Australia.
Yesterday, I spent the day watching Whimbrels, Red-necked Stilts, Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, Red-necked Avocets through binoculars, poking their bills in the mudflats. Recording observations. Seemingly tedious to some, but this is science and necessary for developing a management plan. The day before we cored in these mudflats to see what invertebrates live there, trying to better understand behavior, important food sources, habitat needs.
Our team is half Aussies and half Americans, mostly short-timers in a long line of volunteer field biologists. The mix of participants is both surprising and wonderful. An executive with Esso, an engineer from mining company BHP, a phone company account rep from Orange County, California, who has brought along two large trunks filled with numerous wardrobes. Perhaps we are all closet environmentalists shedding our day jobs to revel in our passions.
We live communally in roadhouse lodging, sharing cooking, stories, laughter. Card games played at night. The Aussie winner shouts out “You beauty”. Tea and bikkies mid-afternoon. Evening barbies. Singing around the campfire, looking at the stars (bush telly).
Learned a lot of Aussie slang: dog’s breakfast (complete chaos), she’ll be apples (it will be alright), whoop whoop (middle of nowhere), bonzer (awesome), whinger (complainer), sheila (female).
The days are long. Tired at night, but a good tired. I will probably never see these people again. This was my first international field project. Many more will follow. But I will cherish the fond memories of this time and place and the people I worked with.
Roger Funston came to poetry late in life after a long career as an environmental scientist. He writes about his life journey, his travels, his tribe and things he has seen that you can’t make up.
